Senkoji

On my first weekend in Onomichi, I felt the need to escape from people for a while. I hadn't really had any time to myself for about a week, so it was that I set off exploring on my lonesome. I left the apartment around midday and went in search of the cable car up to Senkoji. Within about 5 minutes of leaving the apartment I was sweating profusely. I felt so foreign. My embarrassment increased as I climbed into a cable car, crowded with Japanese people who seemed comparatively immune to the heat. Once we reached the top of the hill there was a reasonable breeze and the usual wide range of drink machines you can always find in Japan. I got a popular drink called, “Pocari Sweat” an isotonic kind of flavoured water which seemed rather appropriate.

I meandered around the top, doing my utmost to stay in the shade, like a ninja in the shadows... or perhaps more like a chunky Australian trying to avoid slowly sizzling like a sausage... Anyway, I took some photos from the observation deck, chucked a hundred yen into one of those telescope things and decided that I was indeed, somewhere in Japan. I then decided to to take a wander down the path of literature. Along this path I could see several boulders with what may or may not have been lovely poems, written in the squiggly lines I had been seeing so much of lately. Sun streamed only occasionally through the foliage and serenity seemed to abound until out of nowhere, a slightly old looking Japanese man popped up in front of me, "Hello! Where are you from?" he beamed.
I told him and he smiled a wide grin before dragging me away saying, "I show you good view". So much for my 'alone time' of pondering and contemplation.

He pointed to one of the stones with the beautifully engraved squiggles and explained that it meant something to the effect of,

"There are beautiful views here... but it is so very hot".

I found it hard to believe that this was what the poem actually said but if it was indeed what had been engraved on that stone, that profoundly wise poet was onto something. My new best chum suddenly climbed up onto a massive boulder with surprising ease before encouraging me to join him. With a little more effort than he, I joined him up on the boulder. There was a sudden and a sheer edge, leading to a considerable drop. “Tourist pusher strikes again” I considered tomorrow's headlines. It was a little precarious up there but it was, as he promised, a good view. We made a little bit of chit chat. He wasn't so bad at English and I discovered that he had learned from a radio station which broadcasts free conversational English classes. His name was “Kazusi” or “Kazu” for short.

I began to worry a little about this older gentleman making friends with me so quickly. The last time this had happened I was working at George St Cinemas in Sydney. After some time chatting with that man outside my designated theater, I was invited to watch the Gay Mardi Gras at his Oxford Street apartment. I was also offered lots of money to help him 'move furniture'. I turned down both offers. The rainbow coloured t-shirt really should have tipped me off. I digress...

“You like Japanese ladies?” He asked me. I was relieved that he wasn't going to invite me to move furniture but I didn't really know how to answer appropriately. It didn't matter though, because before I could say anything, he had invited a Japanese lady up on to the rock with us. “Double rock-pushing-murder shocks sea-side town”. That ledge was really playing on my mind...

She spoke no English but seemed smiley and friendly. The guy kept saying how I was so handsome and I feel he tried to set me up with the lady. I assumed they knew each other but I soon discovered that was not the case. They chatted together a little and then he related to me, "Her name, Yukiyo. She single! She 37. Divorced! She okay for you!" The lady seemed to know what was going on and seemed equally embarrassed.

Anyway the three of us tried to communicate, had some laughs and Kazu suggested some good places to visit. He showed me some little sketches and a nice painting he had been doing. He was from Fukuyma and Yukiyo was from Osaka.

Then, Kazu decided his art couldn't wait any longer and he sent Yukiyo and I off in the same direction. What we wanted to do was irrelevant. We shared the same path for a while. She spoke no English but we both smiled so it was fine. At a couple of the temples she modeled how to offer prayers and do the incense and stuff. It was cool to see how it was done. We parted ways quite soon though and I set off on my own again. She tried to dish me off onto an older couple. She must have assumed I spoke to the old man and needed to have Japanese guides with me? Did I really appear so helpless and lost? The couple discussed amongst themselves as I stood there awkwardly. Would it be rude of me to leave after being introduced to this random couple? I decided to point to the top of the hill, said farewell, bowed, and walked briskly away. I climbed some huge boulders using old chains (I think I was allowed to do that?) and found a tiny shrine with a gorgeous view. It was a great feeling getting up there.

After wandering around for a little longer I discovered that Yukiyo had actually stealthily slipped her fan into my pocket. I really was so hot and sweaty. She must have pitied me but I thought that that was a really lovely gesture. I saw more rocks with poems that I couldn't read. I saw more old shrines and temples. I climbed a lot stairs and attracted many stares. Butterflies and cicadas wizzed around everywhere. It was all so beautiful.

Up on the hill was a quaint little shop with Buddhist trinkets for sale. An old lady called me over and explained what each one was used for. She mentioned one which was to be put on your car windscreen for safe car travels. This one appealed to me most. Walking and cycling in Onomichi had been a totally new and frightening experience. I am dreading driving to my schools for the first time. So I bought the Buddhist thingo. Buddha had great foresight to have invented plastic protective car charms.

Other quirks of the hills above Onomichi included an abandoned amusement park and a strange monkey enclosure. I really felt sorry for those monkeys. I am currently plotting a way of kidnapping them and setting them loose in Onomichi. After several hours of exploring the hillside, it was time to walk home. I staggered through Onomichi's long undercover shopping arcade known as the Shotengai. I must have really been a sight. Sunburned bright red, clothes dirtied from climbing up boulders and sweating all over. As I walked along, a strange little shop with a red lantern out the front caught my eye. A young lady sitting inside, near the front door, smiled. I needed a cold drink. I hoped she could help. I tentatively walked over and asked if they were open. The answer was 'no' but the lady invited me inside anyway, rushed around behind the counter and quickly returned with a very cold, moist towel. It was heavenly. A man, wearing a baseball cap and cool clothes offered me a drink. The beer mug came straight out of a freezer and I very quickly cooled down. This was how I met Shunskei and Assan. They're a really lovely couple who run a great little place. They will be getting married in January. Assan, the girl, traveled to Australia a couple of years ago and is not bad at English. Shunskei always has a big smile and he has a good sense of humour.

Since meeting them, I have returned to their little place 3 times. On one occasion, it was my birthday so Shunskei gave me free ice-cream and sang me happy birthday. Awesome...